Game parelli

Your energy should be Phase 1. Try not to touch your horse. Your goal in the driving game is to teach your horse how to move away from your signal instead of direct pressure. This will become very helpful when doing liberty and your horse is at a distance away from you. You should be able to drive your horse forward, backwards, left and right.

The Yo-Yo Game This game balances backwards and forwards movements while developing straightness. Your goal on this game is to have your horse move back with the slightest movement of your finger pointing at him and with your eyes beaming beyond his hindquarters. When backing your horse try keeping the belly of the rope on the ground to a desired amount and then bring him back. Try backing your horse over a pole, through a gate, or under a tarp keeping him straight the entire time.

This game will help teach your horse his responsibilities. There are three parts to the circle game. The send, allow and bring back. The idea of "phases" is essential to this game. In the above example, Phase 1 is the least amount of pressure possible. Essentially, it's the act of placing your hand on the horse.

If the horse doesn't respond, move to Phase 2 - a little more pressure. If that doesn't work, move to Phase 3 - a little more forceful. If he doesn't respond to Phase 3, move onto Phase 4 - whatever amount of pressure it takes to get a response. This does not mean hitting, beating, etc. Getting to Phase 4 means you have steadily increased pressure. As soon as the horse responds, release the pressure all together.

The moment you release pressure is a variety of the Friendly Game - "You did what I wanted you to do, so I'm going to remove the pressure. Use similar methods, referring to the four Phases, along his side, to lift his leg, turn his head, etc.

The Driving Game. While the Porcupine Game is about steady pressure, the Driving Game is about rhythmic pressure, or eventually the "suggestion" of pressure. The Driving Game is a logical progression of the Porcupine Game. Phase 1 is light, rhythmic tapping, Phase 2 slightly stronger, and so on. It's imperative that you maintain a steady rhythm throughout the phases. The speed and rhythm of the pressure shouldn't change, only the amount of force behind the pressure. This process can be applied to backing up, hindquarter yields, etc.

As noted above, for more detailed descriptions and actual demonstrations of the Seven Games from Pat Parelli himself, go to ParelliConnect. The Yo-Yo Game. It's pretty easy to see why this game was named as it was. Using the four Phases, back your horse up a desired amount and then use a retreating motion to bring him back. As Pat says, "The better your horse backs up, the better he'll do everything else. Phase 1 is very little movement in fact, wiggling a finger counts as Phase 1 , Phase 2 is more pronounced, and so on.

At the same time as you change phases, adopt a more forceful, stern look on your face and a dominant body posture. When you want to bring him back in to you, reel in the rope using a steady hand-over-hand motion with a soft, inviting look on your face. Body language is very important in the Seven Games, but it is of particular importance in this portion of the Yo-Yo Game.

The Circling Game. It's important to note the difference between The Circling Game and lunging. In the Circling Game, it's the horse's responsibility to maintain gait, speed, direction and focus. It's not a mindless circle; he must stay attuned to what you're asking. At the same time, you must develop the three parts of the Circle Game: the send, the allow, and the bring-back.

To send, stand in one spot and send the horse out to the end of the rope. Then, lead the horse forward until he begins circling with the rope remaining relatively taught. Once the horse is moving on a circle, you stay in "neutral" face the same direction, don't follow the horse with your eyes or micromanage. As long as he stays on that path, you don't interfere. This is the allow. When you want to bring the horse back, adopt the same body language as you did when you brought him back in the Yo-Yo Game.

The Sideways Game. To begin, it's most effective to bring the horse so his head is facing a wall or barrier of some sort. Using rhythmic pressure with a Carrot Stick not actually touching him, but wiggling the stick and string near the horse's hindquarters , walk toward the horse, who has remained perpendicular to the barrier. This will likely not result in a perfect Sideways motion right away, but alternating repetition and retreat will help you avoid frustration while achieving the desired result.

The Squeeze Game. This game involves getting your horse comfortable with "squeezing" between objects. To begin, these objects should be relatively far apart, so your horse is willing to attempt it. For example, play the Circling Game a bit closer to a wall or barrier than normal, with a bit shorter line than normal. If you allow for a to foot space between you and the barrier and you encourage your horse to go through that space, you're playing the Squeeze Game.

It's all about thresholds. To make sure that your horse does not move forward, simply position it in front of a solid, stationary object.

Continue this practice until you have taught the horse to move sideways by giving it only the verbal command. Make sure that you encourage the horse each time it moves at your sideways push and verbal command to speed up the learning process. The Squeezing Game Stand approximately 5 feet away from an object placed in front of your horse and signal your horse to move in the middle of you and the object.

Gradually decrease the distance between you and the object, commanding the horse to move in the middle of you and the object each time you reduce the distance. Make sure that you praise the horse each time it obeys your command. Continue this game until will move in between you and the object even if it has to touch you and the object at the same time. This game will help you gain the trust of your horse in claustrophobic situations.

Your email address will not be published. Then, close your fingers on the rope and shake only your wrist. Next, lock your wrist tight and bend your elbow, moving your forearm back and forth. This will cause the lead rope and halter to move so your horse can feel it. Now, lock your arm really straight, swinging your entire arm from your shoulder joint. Your horse will really feel this motion, as the rope and the halter will be moving quite a bit.

When your horse takes one step back, at any phase, stop what you are doing and relax your body. This will teach your horse to do the right thing. Whenever they move, start over until they are all the way out at the end of the lead rope.

When your horse is at the end of the lead rope, let them rest for minutes before having them come back to you. When ready, smile and look at your horse in a friendly manner. Lift the lead rope while motioning them to come towards you. Continue to smile and comb the rope lightly with your fingers open.

Next, close your fingers while you comb the rope, causing your horse to feel some pull on their halter. Keep on smiling as you plant your feet, bending your elbows as you hold the rope steadily.

Whenever your horse takes a step forward, release and go back to the beginning. The Circling Game teaches your horse to understand that their job consists of maintaining gait, direction and watching where they are going. This all is done while your horse directs their center of attention to you. The point of this Parelli horse game is to have your horse willingly and gladly do what you ask.

This includes heading off in the direction you say, maintaining gait and direction once on the circle, and coming back in with the slightest suggestion. It is broken into three distinct parts: the send, the allow, and the bring back.

Lead your horse with just a light pull on the lead rope in the direction you want them in. Use a carrot stick or the end of your lead rope in the other hand to support them in that direction. Touch your horse on the neck with your rope or stick if they are standing looking at you. If at any point of the four phases, your horse tries to go in the direction you instructed, allow them to go on the circle.

During the allow phase, simply pass the rope behind your back without turning, talking, clucking or using the carrot stick. You only move when your horse stops, then you send them out again. Only ask for the bring back once your horse has completed at least two laps at any gait. To lead your horse in, run your hand down the lead rope, bringing it to your belly button.