As far as I know, all of the iRacing asphalt cars are adjusted the same way. Some of the names, most notably in the asphalt Street Stock springs, are different, but the process is the same. Sometimes the handling of the car might not be to your liking. Sometimes weather differences will require changes to either tighten or loosen the setup. For warmer track temperatures, you are going to need to tighten the car. When the track is cooler, you may want to loosen the car some.
Always try to start with the track bars first. Adjust the cross weight for more extreme conditions or different circumstances. Try one or two click on each spring perch shown above to raise the cross weight. Is Apple harming its customers—and maybe democracy—by installing the Safari web browser on iPhones? Did Google bully people into using its search engine? A year into the pandemic, the improved quality of livestream concerts is helping to bridge the gap between artists and their socially distanced fans.
The pandemic gave them lemons. So they made lemon rosemary chicken. Bob Bolles After a local Pro Late Model team posted an in-car video of their last race on their Facebook page early during the season, I knew immediately they had some serious problems.
About the Car This is a Port City chassis circa Shock Mount Changes So, the first thing I suggested was to modify the upper shock mounts to do two things. Continue reading your story on the app Open the app. Continue reading your story in the magazine Open the magazine. Circle Track. Facebook to Shut Down Face-Recognition System, Delete Data Facebook said it will shut down its face-recognition system and delete the faceprints of more than 1 billion people amid growing concerns about the technology and its misuse by governments, police and others.
Reader's Digest US. The Atlantic. Seems like if we wanted to run that setup it we require about 0 stagger. The fastet guy in our class can fire his leaf spring car into the corner and is so fast it seem like he practically rebound off the track and head down the straightaway.
Ther is NOOO way i could fire my car into the corner like that we would go into a 4 wheel slide. This class is a limited late model class, the fasted car seem to be running a conventional setup, Of course his car was built and all done up by a pro chassis builder that has the track and his leaf spring cars down. IS The car tight or loose on entry. How are you using the brakes,trail brake,letting the car roll in,braking hard etc Most leaf cars like to be run real tight in the middle to have good forward bite.
If the driver can drive a tight car it helps alot. Post by 72firechicken » Wed Aug 29, pm Car is loose on entry, there have been times we can have had the car tightend in the rear but we ran a pretty high cross, but the car doesnt like that and won turn as well in the front, and wasnt as good as others. Post by RCJ » Thu Aug 30, pm If cross made the entry good and you know cross will help forward bite start looking for something to make the car turn in the middle. Generally speaking, the larger the bar the less the body roll up front.
The less the body roll the tighter the car becomes. Fine tuning with sway bars is an easy way to compensate for roll couple or body roll. Front Sway Bar synopsis: The larger the bar the tighter the chassis. The smaller the bar the looser the chassis. Front Toe Out Front toe out is when the tires are farther apart in the front of the tire than the back. Toe in would be just the opposite. Front toe out is utilized to help prevent tire scrub while cornering.
Within the sim we are allowed adjustments that range from Under no circumstances would you want a toe in condition. The majority of setups usually require a setting of less than 0. I wouldn't run anything less than. Larger radius tracks with long corners would require less toe out. More toe out will help the front end stick entering a corner. A car will run faster with the toe straight.
By monitoring tire temperatures you can tell if you have a toe problem with the chassis. Excessive toe out would show higher temperatures on the insides of both front tires. Excessive toe in would show higher temperatures in the outsides of both front tires. Front toe out isn't an adjustment that has to be changed or monitored as often as camber.
Start with an adjustment of 0. Adjust the toe slightly only when the rest of the chassis is real close to being correct. Fuel Level Your WC race car comes equipped with a 22 gallon fuel cell. Your allowed to adjust the fuels levels from 1 gallon to 22 gallons for practice sessions only. All races as well as qualifying must begin with a full 22 gallons in the tank.
Gone are the days of deciding how much fuel you want to add during a pit stop. We are now faced with 5 options. A splash of fuel will give you gallons. These options can be selected by hitting the left or right arrows on your keyboard after hitting F3.
The less fuel your carrying the faster your car should be. This of course depends on tire condition. The important thing to understand about fuel, is how it effects the handling of your car as it is burned. Multiply that times 22 gallons and you have an extra This is important to remember when taking on less fuel late in a race.
If your setting your chassis based on using a full 22 gallons, you may think that by taking less fuel that you will be quicker. Depending on your setup that might not be the case. The best solution is to practice your setup with different fuel levels to see how it performs. It's also possible to make a wedge or track bar adjustment in the pits to compensate for how your will react with less fuel.
Fuel Level synopsis: Less fuel equals faster speeds. The less fuel in the tank the tighter the chassis will become. Grill tape is nothing more than duct tape. The only component were worried about is the radiator. The more tape you apply the hotter your engine will run. Running excessive amounts of tape for a long period of time will result in engine failure. So why put any tape at all on the the front end? Instead of air going through the car, air is being forced around the car.
This places more down force on the front end. More down force will make the front of the car turn into the corner quicker. Excessive amounts of tape can cause too much down force making the rear of the car lite creating a loose condition.
Weather is another factor you must consider when deciding how much grill tape to use. It stands to reason the hotter the day, the higher your water temperature will be. Therefore with the warmer weather you'll find yourself having to run less grill tape to allow more air flow through the front of the car.
In other words, running the same amount of grill tape on the same track in 50 degree weather may cause an overheating or engine failure problem with the weather being 85 degrees. Be sure to keep an eye on your gauges, or you may find yourself pitting to remove some of that tape.
Try to get away with as much tape as possible on superspeedways without causing excessive water temperature. More tape will decrease lap times. If you discover you can get away with running more tape, but become to loose, adjust for the looseness elsewhere.
The hotter the weather the less tape you can use. Tape causes aerodynamic changes that have very little affect at speeds less than MPH. Left Bias The left bias can be adjusted by clicking the weight bias tab on the garage screen.
Left bias simply means how much weight is on the left side of the car compared to the right side. Between all the weight adjustments allowed, this one is the easiest to figure out.
If you could run your car, with the weight being equal at all 4 corners entering a turn, then you would run faster than anyone else in the corners. With perfect weight distribution you would have perfect tire temperatures. Perfect tire temperatures equals the maximum traction you could attain. This is what were all trying to accomplish with every single adjustment we make on a racecar.
As heavy as WC cars are, left side bias on an oval is simple to deal with. Always keep as much weight as possible towards the left side of the chassis. Whenever your dealing ONLY with left hand turns, always keep the left side weight at More left side weight allows you to take left hand turns at a higher speed.
These obviously would be the road courses. Although at a track where there are more right hand turns than left, you may favor a higher right side percentage. This will allow you to get through those right handers a little more quickly, but at the sacrifice of losing speed going through the left handers. This still could be advantageous if there are few more turns going right than left. Higher right side bias will cause the car to Under steer when making a left hand turn. Rear Sway Bar The purpose of the rear sway bar is the same as the front sway bar except it controls body roll at the rear of the car.
The rear sway bar connects in the back between both rear lower trailing arms. As with the front sway bar, the rear is adjusted by changing the diameter of the bar. The rear sway bar range of adjustments are as low as 0.
This differs by a half inch over the front sway bar, yet the rear offers no less than 26 adjustments in 25 hundredth increments. The larger the bar the stiffer the rear becomes. But by making the rear stiffer, it has just the opposite effect that occurs at the front. A larger rear sway bar will actually loosen the car up due to the fact that the way the weight is being transferred at the rear, is just the opposite of the the way the weight gets transferred at the front of the vehicle.
Rear Sway Bar synopsis: The larger the bar the looser the chassis. The smaller the bar the tighter the chassis. Ride Height The chassis ride height is simply the distance measured in inches from the bottom of the frame rails to the ground. This measurement is taken at all 4 corners of the car where the frame rails are lowest to the ground. Ride height is adjusted by turning down or up on load bolts located at each corner of the car on top of each spring.
Ideally you would want to run your chassis as low as possible. The lower your ride height, the lower your center of gravity. The lower the center of gravity, the lower the overall weight is to the ground. The lower the weight the less weight transfer will occur while cornering.
There are a number of criteria that must be considered when adjusting ride height. These adjustments are built into the chassis itself.
Rear roll center can be taken care of by adjusting the track bar. Check you tire temperature for proper camber angles. The most important factor we must consider is chassis clearance.
If the ride height is set to low the car may bottom out on the track. This will more likely occur at high speed high banked tracks where the centrifugal forces are higher higher or at road courses where there are dips in the track.
If the car bottoms out in the rear you will most likely get loose. Bottoming out up front will result in a push. If you bottom out you can do one of two things.
You can raise the ride height or run stiffer springs. Personally I've always believed that lower was better, but I also believe that softer springs are better. Again, this theory depends on a lot of other adjustments set within the chassis, so experimentation is the only real answer. Lowering the ride height at those same corners will also lower the RF. The corner that is opposite is the LR. At the LF we are allowed to set the ride height as low as 4. The higher the front of the car the tighter the car will be.
The LR can also be set as low as 4. Adjusting the ride height effects the way weight is being transferred when cornering. Running a higher LR ride height also puts more weight on the RR. This will cause a loose condition entering the corner. Another thing you must consider when raising the ride height in the rear is how it affects the aerodynamics of the car.
With that big spoiler running across the back, it will create more drag because it will be catching more wind. This will slow your straightaway speed. With more wind catching the spoiler it will also create more down force on the back of the car which should allow the back of the car to stick better in the corners.
Running a higher ride height may allow a lower spoiler setting. Springs will play an important rule in determining your overall ride height. In general, the lower the car, the faster the car should be, but possibly at the expense of bottoming out. On larger tracks where moderate acceleration occurs at the mid portion of the corner, having the CG too far forward will result in a larger wheel steering angle in the corner and typically a push under steer exiting the corner.
On short tracks where you have heavy acceleration, having a CG too far forward can result in rear wheel spin and a car that feels loose overseer when trying to exit the corners. The higher the CG is above the ground the more weight will transfer to the outside tires in a corner. A higher CG can also exaggerate the affects of Tip E below.
Raising or lowering the CG can impact suspension geometry such as rear axle steer or camber gain in the front suspension. Let the front roll center fall where it may in order for the front suspension to have good camber curves.
Use the rear roll center to tune your race car's handling. Elevating the rear roll center tends to make the car looser overseer in the mid portion of the corner when the centrifugal force is highest. Many people refer to this parameter as roll couple distribution. There are no fixed numbers for this parameter. Your settings back at tip A will affect your ideal numbers. Anybody can crank on the weight jacks until the race car has balanced handling. Cross weight preload is a way of measuring how efficiently the car is balanced.
After you make the spring change it will be necessary to readjust your corner weights. Typically for pavement tracks the front has a larger number. Dirt tracks typically require a larger number at the rear. In all cases, changes that decrease the rear number make the car tighter and increasing the rear number makes the car looser in the turns. While weight jacking is a quick and simple way to change the handling of the race car, it is still a crutch.
Follow instructions in the manual on how to interpret the preload and determine what the race car wants for springs. Before your race car goes on the track or at the shop the tires are "Cold.
As soon as you stop the tires are still "Hot. This measurement can change from cold to hot conditions just like the pressure. A computer is just dumb box. It only know what you tell it. For example, if you were to race your car and have the right front brake rotor glowing bright red you would see this and would be registered in your brain.
The computer can not see t he car and does not know that a large heat source is near the wheel and tire. The temperature of a wheel can be elevated to the point where more heat is reaching the air inside the tire from the hot rim than is coming from the tread surface of the tire. If the software were to read only the tire temperatures it may suspect a slightly high air pressure, but with the rim temperature the software would know about the heat coming from the brake rotor.
A good place to take the rim temperature is where the center flange of the wheel meets the rim portion of the wheel. Ride Height synopsis: Too low a ride height could cause the car to bottom out. The higher the RF ride height the tighter the car will be. The higher the REAR ride heights, the more drag on the straight-away, but the better the rear will stick in the corners. A higher LF will tighten the chassis. A higher LR will loosen the chassis. A higher RR will tighten the chassis. Due to the importance of good note keeping, I'm going to once again remind everyone the importance of keeping track of various adjustments made throughout practice sessions.
These notes could be useful for setups at tracks with familiar configurations which can turn out to be a real time saver. Above I've included two setup sheets for taking notes. You could also use the setup notes option within the garage area to track your changes. I personally would rather track notes on paper because they are are easier to refer to when trying to set up a car at another track with a similar configuration. What I do like to keep track of in the setup notes area is what type of tire wear I get with the current setup.
Fuel mileage is another thing to keep track of. Knowing how many laps you can get on a fuel run will allow you to keep in the back of your mind, when you will be forced to pit. Can I make it on a full tank of fuel or will I need tires first.
If so what lap will I have to pit should we go green the whole way. I also like to keep track of how the car reacts as tires wear, as well as how it performs with less fuel in the car. How bad do lap times decrease over X number of laps. What chassis adjustments could I make during a pit stop to help counter react the way the chassis performs with less fuel. Perhaps a track bar or tire pressure adjustment would be the way to go when pitting after so many laps.
All these types of questions I have answered before entering a race because of good note keeping. Simply reading your setup notes will remind you once again what you can expect from the setup you will be running before even getting on the track. If you have multiple setups for various weather conditions reviewing these notes will allow you to choose what setup to run given the current track conditions.
This is where using the track notes section of the garage area comes in handy read the section on track notes. A shock controls the speed at which the spring moves.
Shocks are a very easy issue to become confused about. At times, too much or too little of the same adjustment on the same shock can produce the same exact results in the chassis. Such results end up in total confusion as which way is the right way to go with an adjustment. The most important thing to remember regarding shocks, is that the stiffer the shock, the less grip it will have at the corner or end of the chassis.
Shocks do NOT control the amount of weight transfer in a corner. They will however control how quickly the weight is transferred. Shocks used on WC teams are rated from 1 through 9. The compression of a shock is when it is being pressed down. The rebound is when it is being pulled back up.
This means that the shock when compressed, has the same resistance when pulled apart. This shock would be stiff to compress, but would rebound or pull apart real easy. By adjusting the valving of each shock you can fine tune your chassis through a corner. When discussing shock tuning in depth, a basic understanding of dynamic weight transfer and its effect on tire loadings is necessary.
Dynamic weight transfer is the transferring of weight from side to side during cornering, from rear to front during deceleration and from front to rear during acceleration.
The distribution of weight that transfers is affected by the rates of the springs used in the chassis. Basically, if one of a pair of springs receiving weight is stiffer than the other, the stiff spring receives proportionately more weight than the soft spring.
In rebound, a stiff shock slows down and a soft shock speeds up the unloading process. In compression, a stiff shock slows down and a soft shock speeds up the loading process.
However, excessively soft or stiff shocks can produce effects opposite to those stated. Consequently, by changing the stiffness of the shocks used on a race car, we are adjusting the loadings on the tires at different points on the race track.
If done correctly, good handling will result. The easiest way for me to explain when a shock is doing it's most work, is by using an ordinary automobile as an example. Imagine a vehicle going down the highway at 50mph. Now imagine this vehicle slamming on it's brakes.
What occurs in the chassis? What are the shocks going through in this state? Generally speaking, this is the exact same thing that occurs in a racecar upon entering the corner. Giving the car full throttle what occurs? Just the opposite of what was explained above. The front of the car lifts while the rear of the car squats.
The shocks on a race car are going to react the same way in the middle of a corner when your chassis takes set to full throttle. The balance of traction between the left side and right side tires determines to a great extent how the car will handle while decelerating through the corner. For example, a race car will tend to push whenever the left side tires do not have enough influence in stopping the car the right side tires are slowing the vehicle more than the left so the vehicle tends to go to the right.
Consequently, the left side tires remain loaded further into the corner which helps to turn the chassis. Asymmetrically changing the front or rear shocks can also give different results on the handling of a chassis. Decreasing the rebound on both front shocks allows the weight to transfer quicker from the front to the rear under acceleration.
This will loosen a chassis more as throttle is applied. Increasing the rebound would produce just the opposite effects. Asymmetrically adjusting the rear shocks will also produce different effects as compared to adjusting individual corners.
If you understand springs read the spring section you will have a better understanding of how shocks operate. All of the asymmetrical theories that apply to springs also apply to shocks in much of the same manner. In other words a stiffer RF shock will tighten a chassis much the same as a stiffer RF spring will, albeit to a much lesser degree. To begin with your not always going to feel a major change.
Shocks adjustments are a fine tuning device only to be used after the rest of the chassis is close to being neutral or stable. Say 9 compression 9 rebound, or 1 compression 1 rebound. Once again I bring up stiffer equals less grip on that corner. The reason many drivers do not feel a shock change is because they quickly forget the stiffer shock or shocks produce the least amount of grip. The RF is still stiffer.
With a better understanding, you will have a much easier time deciding which shock to adjust to help cure or smooth your corner transitioning problem properly. What works with one driver, might not necessarily be correct for another. This is due to the fact that different drivers have different driving techniques. Smooth throttle, brake and steering transitions will require slower shock travel because weight isn't being transferred as quickly compared to those drivers that use abrupt throttle, brake, and steering transitions.
Take for example a coil over shock that has a threaded collar for supporting the spring. If the collar has been turned up a number of times so the spring is compressed even when the shock is fully extended then the spring would be preloaded.
In other words there is a load on the spring before there is any shock compression. On the whole car, due to spring placement, suspension positioning, and tire diameters, etc. Adjustments in or out on the weight jack screws is the most common way the preload is changed. Below is a general guide that should assist you in fine tuning your shocks.
The stiffer the REAR shocks, higher the number the looser the car will be under acceleration. The softer the REAR shocks, lower the number the tighter the car will be under acceleration. The stiffer the REAR shocks, higher the number the looser the car will be under braking.
The softer the REAR shocks, lower the number the tighter the car will be under braking. Shock synopsis: RF Higher compression will tighten the chassis entering a corner. Lower compression will loosen the chassis entering a corner. Higher rebound will tighten the chassis accelerating out of a corner. Lower rebound will loosen the chassis accelerating out of a corner. Overall stiffer RF shock will tighten chassis, weaker will loosen it. RR Higher compression will loosen the chassis accelerating out of a corner.
Lower compression will tighten the chassis accelerating out of a corner. Higher rebound will loosen the chassis entering a corner. Lower rebound will tighten the chassis entering a corner.
Overall stiffer RR shock will loosen chassis, weaker will tighten it. LF Higher compression will tighten the chassis entering a corner. Overall stiffer LF shock will loosen chassis, weaker will tighten it. LR Higher compression will loosen the chassis accelerating out of a corner. Overall stiffer LR shock will tighten chassis, weaker will loosen it.
Asymmetrical changes: The stiffer the shock, the less grip that tire will have.
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